Red
undergarments are thought to ward off menstrual pain and keep the female
reproductive organs healthy and functioning. Red is also thought to be
erotic to men. Geishas traditionally wear crimson lining under their
kimonos (depending on season)as well as bright red lipstick made from
safflower extract and red rouge, made from the petals of crimson flowers.
In
the early era of Geisha, when most patrons were shoguns, the costumes
that the Geisha Girls wore were very warrior-like, including large hats
and decorative swords. As the culture flourished, garments became much
more feminine. Geisha began to wear the traditional kimono. The color,
pattern, and style of kimono was dependent on season, but the kimono
was always worn in three layers (the outer kimono and two layers of undergarments),
regardless of season. In the winter, Geisha could be seen wearing a three-quarter
length "overcoat" lined with hand painted silk over their kimono.
In the spring, the waistband that Geisha wear (obi) became very important.
During the springtime, the waistband was often more expensive than the
kimono and ornately decorated. The spring kimono also had a crimson lining.
Come summer, the lining was removed, and the kimonos were typically of
brighter colors and different designs. Again in autumn, the crimson lining
would reappear as well as new colors and designs. Geisha wore a flat-soled
sandal outdoors, and went barefoot indoors. When weather was bad, the
women wore raised wooden clogs that are attached to the foot in the same
way that the usual thong sandal is. Maiko, geisha in training, wore a
special black lacquered wooden clog.
The
hairstyles of Geisha have varied considerably over history. Before
the time of T'ang China, it was most common for women to wear their
hair down but during the time of T'ang China, it became popular to
tie one's hair up. Women then returned to wearing their hair parted
in the center and hanging straight down. Again during the seventeenth
century, women began pulling all their hair up again and it is during
this time that the traditional hairstyle, shimada, developed. This
is the hairstyle worn by Geisha and means generally thatall the hair
is pulled back in one section. There are four major types of the
shimada: Taka Shimada,a high chignon (a kind of knot of hair), usually
worn by young, single women; Tsubushi shimada, a more flattened chignon
generally worn by older women; Uiwata, a chignon that is usually
bound up with a piece of color cotton crepe; and a style that ends
up looking like a divided peach, typically worn by maiko. These hairstyles
were decorated with elaborate hair-combs and hairpins, which often
symbolized status. In the seventeenth century and after the Meiji
Restoration period, hair-combs were large and conspicuous, generally
more ornate for higher-class women. During the Meiji restoration
and in this modern era, smaller less conspicuous hair-combs are more
popular. The traditional makeup of the Geisha is probably the most
common feature associated with the culture because of its striking
contrast to contemporary makeup. Under the influence of T'ang China,
early geisha and other women of the period would dye their brows
a golden yellow. Beginning in the Sixteenth century, the Geisha began
using a white foundation made from rice powder that has since been
replaced by a white cream. Geisha wear bright red lipstick, made
from safflower extract and often worn only in the center of the lips
to emphasize delicacy, femininity and the desired miniature effect.
Light red rouge made from crimson flower petals was also worn. Until
the Meiji period, Geisha and other performers were known to permanently
stain their teeth black, the significance of which is not certain.
The world of Geisha is a culture that allows Japanese women to be
independent and economically self-sufficient, as they do not marry
(as they would cease to be a Geisha if she did).
It
is probably the only profession in Japanese which the women are consistently
ranked above the men in the profession. Geisha also allows a woman
to work into old age and because of the high cultural value on this
preservation of traditional art and culture gives the woman an inherent
value and respect that she might otherwise be unable to obtain.