Originally, "kimono" was
the Japanese word for clothing. But in more recent years, the word
has been used to refer specifically to traditional Japanese clothing.
Kimonos as we know them today came into being during the Heian
period (794-1192).
From
the Nara period (710-794) until then, Japanese people typically wore
either ensembles consisting of separate upper and lower garments
(trousers or skirts), or one-piece garments. But in the Heian period,
a new kimono-making technique was developed. Known as the straight-line-cut
method, it involved cutting pieces of fabric in straight lines
and sewing them together. With this technique, kimono makers did
not have to concern themselves with the shape of the wearer's body.
Straight-line-cut kimonos offered many advantages. They were easy
to fold. They were also suitable for all weather: They could be
worn in layers to provide warmth in winter, and kimonos made of
breathable fabric such as linen were comfortable in summer. These
advantages helped kimonos become part of Japanese people's everyday
lives.
Over time, as the practice of wearing kimonos in layers came into
fashion, Japanese people began paying attention to how kimonos
of different colors looked together, and they developed a heightened
sensitivity to color. Typically, color combinations represented
either seasonal colors or the political class to which one belonged.
It was during this time that what we now think of as traditional
Japanese color combinations developed.
During
the Kamakura period (1192-1338) and the Muromachi period (1338-1573), both
men and women wore brightly colored kimonos. Warriors dressed in colors representing
their leaders, and sometimes the battlefield was as gaudy as a fashion show.
During the Edo period (1603-1868), the Tokugawa warrior clan ruled over Japan.
The country was divided up into feudal domains ruled by lords. The samurais
of each domain wore identified by the colors and patterns of their "uniforms." They
consisted of three parts: a kimono; a sleeveless garment known as a kamishimo
worn over the kimono; and a hakama, a trouser-like split
skirt. The kamishimo was made of linen, starched to make the shoulders stand
out. With so many
samurai clothes to make, kimono makers got better and better at their craft,
and kimono making grew into an art form. Kimonos became more valuable, and
parents handed them down to their children as family heirlooms.